Respuesta corta: an eyelet hole can be pierced or cut. The Leiden Textile Research Centre says an eyelet is a hole “pierced in the ground material with a stiletto or cut into the ground cloth”, then outlined with running stitch and neatened with overcast or buttonhole stitch. On a Schiffli machine, borer knives cut the hole and cover stitches are added around the edge.
This guide is for buyers ordering broderie anglaise dresses, tops y ropa de playa. It explains how the holes are made, how the edges are finished, and what to write in the spec so the sample can be checked. Aquí, “eyelet” means an embroidered hole in the fabric. It does not mean a metal eyelet or press-stud.
Are broderie anglaise eyelet holes pierced or cut?
Both methods exist, and the size of the hole matters. The Textile Research Centre (TRC) in Leiden describes the traditional method in its broderie anglaise entry: holes “are pierced in the ground material (usually a fine linen or cotton) with a metal die or a stiletto”. The same entry says that over time “the eyelet holes became bigger, which meant they had to be cut out”, and that this was done “with a pair of fine scissors”.
los Wikipedia article on broderie anglaise describes the same two routes. In some cases “the holes were punched out with an embroidery stiletto before finishing the edge”. In other cases “the fabric was embroidered first, and the hole was cut afterwards, with scissors.”
para un comprador, the difference is simple:
- Pierced: the hole is opened with a stiletto or metal die, as TRC describes.
- Cortar: fabric is removed with a blade or scissors, so the hole can be larger or shaped, such as an oval or a petal.
How is the edge of an eyelet finished so it does not unravel?
The edge is bound with stitches that wrap the raw edge of the hole. The TRC eyelet entry says the hole “is then normally outlined with running stitch and neatened with either an overcast stitch or buttonhole stitch.” Wikipedia says broderie anglaise eyelets are “cut out of the fabric, then bound with overcast or buttonhole stitches.”
Why does this stop fraying? los Wikipedia article on overcast stitch says the stitch is “used to enclose a raw, or unfinished, seam or edge” and that “the purpose is to prevent unraveling of the fabric.” It adds that “a straight overcast stitch is used for finishing edges in eyelets and cutwork.”
The two edge stitches look different:
- Overcast stitch chales over the edge in a spiral.
- Buttonhole stitch forms a looped edge. The TRC describes a buttonhole eyelet as “worked as a buttonhole stitch, but in circular form rather than in a straight line”, with each stitch “worked into the same central hole”.
The running stitch underneath matters too. TRC says the hole is first outlined with running stitch, and the edge stitch is then worked over it.
How are machine eyelets made on a Schiffli embroidery machine?
On a Schiffli machine, a built-in knife cuts the hole and the needles stitch around it. Wikipedia says that from the 1870s the designs of broderie anglaise “could be copied by the Swiss hand-embroidery and schiffli embroidery machines”, and that “today, most broderie anglaise is created by machine.”
Wilcom, an embroidery software maker, explains the mechanism in its Schiffli boring help page:
- “Schiffli machines have built-in borer knives under the needle line.”
- “Schiffli borer knives have four tapering edges which can cut holes of varying size, depending on how far they penetrate the fabric.”
- “The smaller the value, the smaller the borer depth, and hence the smaller the hole.”
- “The complete effect is achieved when cover stitches, using normal or metallic threads, are added around the edges.”
Wilcom’s borer considerations page adds one practical point. On a Schiffli machine “the fabric is not backed by anything which means there is a little play back-and-forth”, so “the cut may not be as large as the borer knife diameter at any given depth.” In other words, the hole size on the cloth is set by the borer depth and the fabric, not only by the knife. This is a good reason to approve hole size on a real sample, not on the artwork.
Textile School, in its page on Schiffli machine borers, says borers are used “to puncture the spanned fabric as required, to form holes in the fabric”.
How do the hole and edge methods compare?
| Método | How the hole is made | How the edge is finished | Fuente |
|---|---|---|---|
| Hand, pierced | Pushed open with a stiletto or metal die | Running-stitch outline, then overcast or buttonhole stitch | TRC Leiden |
| Hand, corte | Cut with fine scissors, used for bigger holes | Running-stitch outline, then overcast or buttonhole stitch | TRC Leiden; Wikipedia |
| Buttonhole eyelet (wheel) | Stitches worked into one central hole | Circular buttonhole stitch | TRC Leiden |
| Schiffli machine | Cut by borer knives; depth sets the size | Cover stitches added around the edge | Wilcom |
Which base fabric is used for broderie anglaise dresses and tops?
The sources name cotton and linen. TRC says the ground material is “usually a fine linen or cotton”. Seamwork, a sewing-pattern publisher, says in its guide to sewing with eyelet fabric that “traditionally, eyelet is made from a plain weave fabric, often composed of cotton or a cotton blend.”
gasa de algodón, lawn and poplin are all plain-weave cottons, but they differ in weight and openness. None of the sources above compares how each one holds an eyelet. So name the exact base fabric in your spec, and judge the holes on a sample made in that fabric.
Does broderie anglaise need a lining, and should it be sheer?
The holes are open, so whatever sits behind them shows. Seamwork says: “If modesty is what you’re after, underline your eyelet in a fabric that is close to your skin tone.” It also says “nude or white lining fabric can be used for a more subtle look”, and that “underlining works best for eyelet fabrics.”
Seams show through too. Seamwork notes that “your seams will be visible on your garment”, and suggests “French seams, a Hong-Kong finish, or serged edges”.
For a broderie dress or top, the choice is a design decision. An unlined bodice shows skin through the eyelets. A sheer lining softens this. An opaque or skin-tone lining hides it. A beachwear cover-up may be left unlined on purpose. Write the choice in the spec, with the lining fabric and colour.
Where should the broderie border sit, and how is it matched at the seams?
Seamwork notes that eyelet fabric can have a decorative selvage, which suits hems, sleeves and necklines. It advises cutting “from the center front out”, so you can “strategically center the design on the front piece, and then you can match the scallops at the side seam.” It adds: “just aim to create a smooth line with no abrupt edges.”
Seamwork also notes that the border is a straight edge, so a gathered or straight skirt suits it, and that a strip of the selvage can be cut and used as trim on a curved edge. If a decorative edge becomes “floppy or rumpled”, it suggests “a strip of lightweight interfacing to stabilize this edge.”
For broderie anglaise vestidos, tops and beachwear, state in the spec:
- where the border sits: dobladillo, manga, neckline or yoke;
- which way the scallops point;
- whether the motif is centred on the front;
- whether scallops must meet at the side seams.
How can a buyer check the eyelets on the sample?
Look at the face and the reverse of the broderie. Check that each hole is fully covered by the edge stitch, with no raw threads showing. Check that holes of the same size in the artwork come out the same size on the cloth.
Then wash the sample as the care label will say, and take photos of the same eyelets before and after. Compare hole shape, edge coverage and any loose threads. This shows how your chosen fabric, hole and stitch behave together. It is a check, not a guarantee for bulk, so keep the photos with the approved sample.
For the general embroidery options on our garments, see our page on custom embroidery for ladies garments. You can also browse our vestidos y tops y blusas.
What to put in the spec for broderie anglaise eyelets
- Hole type: pierced or cut; hand or Schiffli machine.
- Hole size and shape: redondo, oval or shaped, with the size marked on the artwork and approved on the sample.
- Edge stitch: overcast, ojal, or machine cover stitch.
- Thread fibre and colour for the edge stitch and surface embroidery.
- Base fabric: the exact cloth, for example cotton voile, lawn or poplin.
- Forro: ninguno, sheer or opaque; fabric and colour.
- Seam finish where seams show through the holes.
- Colocación: border position, scallop direction, centring and side-seam matching.
- Prueba de lavado: wash the sample to the care label, with before and after photos of the same eyelets.
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