A chiffon or georgette dress hem goes uneven mainly because the bias parts of a flared or circular hem stretch as the dress hangs, so some points drop lower than others. A wavy edge comes from the hem being stretched while it was sewn. Hem weight and washing add to both. The fix is to specify the hanging, the levelling and the finish.
Why does the hem of my chiffon or georgette dress dip lower in some places?
The hem dips where the cloth runs on the bias, because bias-cut fabric stretches under its own weight. A woven fabric has two straight grains, along the warp and along the weft. Between them, at 45 degrees, is the bias. Fabric pulled on the bias gives much more than fabric pulled on the straight grain.
A circular, flared or A-line hem crosses the straight grain and the bias many times as it goes round the body. WeAllSew (BERNINA) explains that bias-cut fabric “has a tendency to stretch out”, and that because a circle hem is part bias and part straight grain, some areas stretch more than others. It adds that drapey fabrics show this more. Chiffon and georgette are light, open and drapey, so a flared chiffon or georgette dress or kaftan is a clear case. Where the flare comes from inserted godets, the grain of each wedge and the stitching at its point are covered in godets in dresses, skirts and kaftans.
The result is a hem that was level on the cutting table but hangs lower at the bias points after the dress has hung for a day. Seamwork notes that bias-cut garments stretch “over time and as you wear them”, so the drop is not only a factory-stage issue.
Should a flared georgette or chiffon dress hang before it is hemmed?
Yes. Hanging the sewn dress before hemming lets the bias stretch first, so the hem is cut level after the drop, not before it. Three sewing references give the same minimum:
- Sewing.org: “Bias-cut garments should hang at least twenty-four hours before hemming.”
- Seamwork: hang the pieces for at least 24 hours after the major seams are sewn, before the final hem.
- New Mexico State University’s guide C-314, Making Perfect Garment Hems: let the garment hang for 24 hours on a cushioned hanger before marking the hem, especially if a large part of it is on the bias.
WeAllSew adds that heavier or drapier fabrics may need longer than 24 hours. So the hanging time for a long viscose georgette maxi dress may need to be longer than for a short chiffon top. A sample is the place to find out.
How is a dipped hem levelled on a chiffon or georgette dress?
A dipped hem is levelled by measuring up from the floor after hanging, marking one height all round, and trimming to that line. WeAllSew describes using the shortest point of the hem as the reference, measuring that height from the floor with a metre stick or a dress form’s hem gauge, marking all round with pins or chalk, then cutting along the mark. The NMSU guide recommends marking while the garment is worn, with the shoes and belt it will be worn with.
For bulk production, the tech pack should say which reference is used:
- From the floor, on a dress form at a stated height. This gives a hem that looks level when worn.
- From the waist or shoulder, measured down at set points such as centre front, side seams and centre back. This is easier to check on a flat table, but on a flared dress it measures the cut, not how the hem hangs.
Both are valid. The point is to name one, and to state an evenness tolerance in centimetres that the QC team measures against.
Why does the hem of my chiffon dress look wavy, like lettuce?
A wavy or “lettuce” hem forms when the edge is stretched as it is stitched, so the stitching locks in extra length. On a curved hem in chiffon or georgette, much of that edge is on the bias, and the bias stretches easily.
When this effect is wanted, it is made on purpose. Sew Guide describes the lettuce edge as made by stretching the fabric edge while sewing, and says “if you do not stretch the flutes will not be formed.” It suits thin knit fabric best. On an overlock (merrow) machine, Wikipedia’s overlock article notes that an extra-fast feed setting creates a ruffled or “lettuce-leaf” effect.
When it is not wanted, it is a fault. The same stretch happens by accident if a bias edge is pulled through the machine. Seamwork warns: “Don’t pull bias fabric through your machine—it will warp out of shape.” On a circle or flared hem the operator is steering a curve, and the bias sections of that curve stretch more than the straight-grain sections. So the wave can be uneven, with flat stretches and rippled stretches on one hem.
A buyer who wants a flat hem should say “flat, no fluting” in the tech pack. A buyer who wants a lettuce edge should say so, and approve a sample of it, because the amount of wave depends on how much the edge is stretched.
Is a rolled hem or a narrow hem better on a bias-curved chiffon hem?
A narrow hem is what three sewing references recommend for bias and flared hems. Sewing.org says “a narrow hem is the best choice for a bias-cut garment.” Seamwork says a narrow rolled hem “works beautifully on bias edges because it maintains flexibility.” The NMSU guide gives flared or circular edges a hem of about 1.3 to 2.5 cm, against 5 to 7.5 cm for straighter edges.
The reason is shape as well as weight. When a curved edge is turned up, the raw edge of the turn is longer than the fold line it sits on. The deeper the turn, the more extra length there is, and that extra has to be eased in or it ripples. A narrow turn has almost no extra length.
The method still matters on chiffon. On So Sew Easy, the author says she would not use a rolled-hem presser foot “unless is cotton voile or organza”, and that the method she finds works on a silk chiffon curve is to stitch a guide line about 6 mm (1/4 inch) in from the edge first. That is one maker’s experience with one fabric, but it shows why a sample of the exact finish on the exact fabric is worth more than a finish name.
Does a deep hem make a georgette or chiffon dress hang badly?
A deep double-turn hem adds weight and layers at the very bottom of a sheer fabric, and that changes both the look and the drape. In chiffon or georgette, each layer of the turn reads darker through the fabric, so a deep hem shows as a solid band. Its weight also pulls the hem down, which adds to the bias drop on a flared dress.
A light hem lets a light fabric move. A narrow rolled or baby hem adds very little weight, so a chiffon or georgette skirt keeps its float.
A deep hem is not always wrong. The NMSU guide says sheer fabrics “should have extremely wide hems or extremely narrow rolled hems”, depending on the shape of the edge. A very wide, straight hem on a straight georgette kaftan can be a deliberate design feature. The trouble starts when a deep hem is put on a curved, flared edge, where it both ripples and pulls.
What about overlocked (merrow) edges on a curved viscose or georgette hem?
An overlocked or merrow rolled edge is a single, very light finish, so it adds almost no weight and suits a floaty chiffon or georgette hem. Its behaviour on a curve depends on how the fabric is fed. As noted above, the feed setting on an overlock machine can produce a deliberate lettuce-leaf edge (Wikipedia). The same feed on a bias curve can stretch the edge when a flat finish was wanted.
For a viscose or georgette dress with a merrow hem, ask for a sample on the real curve, not on a straight strip. Approve it after it has hung, and again after a wash.
Why does a viscose dress or kaftan hem change after washing?
Viscose can change size and shape when wet, so a hem that was level before washing can come out shorter, longer or uneven. Wikipedia’s rayon article says the durability and appearance retention of regular viscose are low, “especially when wet”. It also contrasts polynosic rayon, which does not shrink or get “pulled out of shape when wet like many rayons.”
On a flared viscose dress, the wet fabric is heavier and weaker. The bias sections can relax further, and the fabric can shrink as it dries. If the dress is hung to dry, the weight of the water acts on the hem.
The way to find out is a wash test before bulk. ISO 5077 is the international method for measuring the dimensional change of fabrics and garments after washing and drying. For a hem, measure the length at fixed points (centre front, sides, centre back, and the bias points) before and after the wash, using the care method on the label.
When is a horsehair braid hem used on chiffon?
Horsehair braid (also called crin) is a stiff mesh tape sewn into a hem on purpose, to give a light fabric body and a rounded, standing hemline. It is a design choice, not a cure for a dipping hem. Janome’s tutorial uses it on an organza skirt that is at least a full circle, and shows the braid’s thread being pulled to ease it round the curve, with a warning not to stretch the braid. It suits occasion dresses with a structured skirt. It does not suit a soft, floaty chiffon kaftan.
How do hem finishes compare on a chiffon, georgette or viscose dress?
| Hem finish | Weight added | Effect on drape | Behaviour on a bias curve |
|---|---|---|---|
| Hand-rolled or very narrow rolled hem | Very low | Fabric floats and moves freely | Recommended for bias edges; waves if the edge is stretched while sewing |
| Narrow machine double-turn (about 6 mm + 6 mm) | Low | Slight crispness at the edge | Little extra length to ease on a curve; still needs hanging and levelling first |
| Overlocked (merrow) rolled edge | Very low | Soft, light edge | Can go flat or lettuce-wavy depending on feed and handling; sample on the real curve |
| Deep double-turn hem (several cm) | High | Pulls the fabric down; shows as a band through sheer fabric | Extra length at the raw edge ripples unless eased; better on straight hems |
| Horsehair braid (crin) | Low weight, high stiffness | Holds the hem out in a rounded shape | Braid must be eased round the curve, not stretched; a structured look, not a soft one |
For a soft, flared garment, see our guide to polyester georgette kaftans for how the fibre itself behaves. Browse our dresses and kaftans.
What should I put in the tech pack for a chiffon, georgette or viscose hem?
- Hem finish and finished width, for example “narrow rolled hem, 3 mm finished” or “merrow rolled edge”.
- Flat or lettuce: say “flat, no fluting” or “lettuce edge, as approved sample”.
- Hang before hemming: yes, with a minimum time, for example 24 hours on a padded hanger or form after the main seams are sewn.
- Levelling method: from the floor on a form at a stated height, or from the waist at named points.
- Hem evenness tolerance: a figure in centimetres, and where it is measured.
- Wash test before bulk: wash a sample by the label’s care method, then re-measure hem length at centre front, sides, centre back and the bias points.
- Approval sample: the hem on the real fabric and the real curve, approved after hanging and after washing.
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